Wire Cable Failures in Climbing Anchor Chocks

Abstract:

Article Preview

Anchor chocks are used in the sport of rock climbing for providing secure attachment to a rock face. They are used at regular intervals and must be light weight (since many are carried) and also sufficiently strong to withstand an impact force should a climber fall from a height. In chock design, steel wire cable is widely used for connecting the nut component, which is wedged into a rock crevice, to the free end which attaches, via a karabiner link, to the safety rope. However, the wire cable is vulnerable to failure as it can fray with use at exposed ends - especially when folded into a loop using tight bends. Also, the ferrule end connections are considered a potential design weakness. In a research programme tests have been carried out on new and also some well used anchor chocks and has revealed very different, and some unpredicted, failure modes – depending on the state of the wire rope and whether the applied load at failure was static or impact. This paper presents the results of test failures for a range of chocks and discusses the benefits of using single lengths of wire cable with suitably swaged end ferrules.

Info:

Periodical:

Key Engineering Materials (Volumes 348-349)

Edited by:

J. Alfaiate, M.H. Aliabadi, M. Guagliano and L. Susmel

Pages:

165-168

Citation:

J. Vogwell and J. M. Minguez, "Wire Cable Failures in Climbing Anchor Chocks", Key Engineering Materials, Vols. 348-349, pp. 165-168, 2007

Online since:

September 2007

Export:

Price:

$38.00

[1] R. Smith The development of equipment to reduce risk in rock climbing, Journal of Sports Engineering vol. 1 pages 27-39 (1998).

[2] A. Fyffe, I. Peter The Handbook of Climbing, Pelham Books, London (1997).

[3] D. Custer An estimation of the load rate imparted to a climbing anchor during a fall arrest Proc. Int. Sports Engineering Conf. Ed. Moritz E & Haake pages 45-50 Munich (2006).

DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-0-387-46050-5_9

[4] J. Vogwell, J.M. Minguez The safety of rock climbing equipment under falling loads Proc. of the Engineering Failure Analysis Conference ICEFAII, Toronto, Canada (2006).

[5] M. Pavier Experimental and theoretical simulations of climbing falls, Journal of Sports Engineering vol. 1 pages 79-91 (1998).

[6] N. McMillan How strong does your climbing gear need to be? British Mountaineering Council Technical Meeting Note 04/03 November (2003).

[7] F.K. Fuss Synopsis of Climbing - Instrumentation and Testing of Equipment Proc. of the Engineering of Sport vol. 1 pages 43-44 (2006).

DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-0-387-46050-5_8

Fetching data from Crossref.
This may take some time to load.