Research and Analysis on the Wave Transformation and Irregular Wave Breaking Criterion on the Shore

Abstract:

Within the surf zone which is the region extending from the seaward boundary of wave breaking to the limit of wave uprush, breaking waves are the dominant hydrodynamics acting as the key role for sediment transport and beach profile change. Breaking waves exhibit various patterns, principally depending on the incident wave steepness and the beach slope. Based on the equations of conservation of mass, momentum and energy, a theoretical model for wave transformation in and outside the surf zone was obtained, which is used to calculate the wave shoaling, wave set-up and set down and wave height distributions in and outside the surf zone. The analysis and comparison were made about the breaking point location and the wave height variation caused by the wave breaking and the bottom friction, and about the wave breaking criterion under regular and irregular breaking waves. Flume experiments relating to the regular and irregular breaking wave height distribution across the surf zone were conducted to verify the theoretical model. The agreement is good between the theoretical and experimental results.

• Periodical: Applied Mechanics and Materials (Volume 858)
• Pages: 354-358
• DOI: https://doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/AMM.858.354
• Online since: November 2016
• Authors: Tao You*, Li Ping Zhao, Zheng Xiao, Lun Chao Huang, Xiao Rui Han
• Keywords: Irregular Wave Breaking Criterion, Sediment Transport, Surf Zone, Wave Transformation

References

[1] J. W. Kamphuis, Introduction to coastal engineering and management, World Scientific Publishing Co., Singapore, (2010).

[2] C. C. Mei, The Applied Dynamics of Ocean Surface Waves, Wiley Press, New York, (1989).

[3] Y. Goda, Design wave height selection in intermediate-depth waters, Coast. Eng. 66 (2012) 3-7.

[4] U S. Army corps of engineers, The Coastal Engineering Manual, Washington, DC., (2003).

[5] F. C. K. Ting, Laboratory study of wave and turbulence characteristics in narrow-band irregular breaking waves, Coast. Eng. 46(4) (2002) 291-313.

DOI: 10.1016/s0378-3839(02)00092-3

[6] P. J. Lynett, Nearshore wave modeling with high-order Boussinesq-type equations. J. Waterway Port. Coastal. Ocean Eng. 132 (2006) 348–357.

DOI: 10.1061/(asce)0733-950x(2006)132:5(348)

[7] S. T. Grilli, I. A. Svendsen, R. Subramanya, Breaking criterion and characteristics for solitary waves on slopes. J. Waterway. Port. Coastal. Ocean Eng. 123 (1997) 102–112.

DOI: 10.1061/(asce)0733-950x(1997)123:3(102)

[8] P. A. Madsen, O. R. Sorensen, H. A. Schaffer. Surf zone dynamics simulated by a Boussinesq type model Part I Model description and cross-shore motion of regular waves. Coastal. Eng. 32 (1997) 255–287.

DOI: 10.1016/s0378-3839(97)00028-8