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Title:
22nd AUTEX World Textile Conference
Subtitle:
Selected peer-reviewed full text papers from the 22nd AUTEX World Textile Conference (AUTEX 2023)
Edited by:
Prof. Li Jing Wang
ToC:
Paper Title Page
Abstract: Phenolic components, flavonoids, tannins and vitamins (A, C, E) in the content of Rosa Canina fruits provide antimicrobial and antioxidant activity and they already have many uses such as food and medicine industry. Despite the fact that Rosa Canina extracts contain many beneficial and active components, they have not been yet studied as finishing agents for textiles. This paper represents the investigation of potential use of these extractions as natural functional agents for fabrics. Firstly, Rosa Canina extractions were prepared using different solvents (distilled water, ethanol and methanol) by ultrasound-assisted extraction. Pre-treatment process with chitosan was carried out via pad-dry-cure method using cotton fabrics. Then, these extractions were applied to undyed and pre-treated cotton fabrics via exhaustion method. Extractions and waste solutions of textile finishing process were examined by Ultraviolet–visible (UV-Vis) spectroscopy. In addition, the chemical structure of the undyed and treated fabrics was characterized by Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR). Finally, treated fabrics were examined in terms of UV protection properties by UPF measurements. UV-Vis results showed that maximum amount of active compounds was observed on Rosa Canina extraction with water. According to UPF values, pre-treatment with chitosan definitely have a positive effect on UV protection of cotton fabrics and Rosa Canina extract treatments lead also an extra increase on UPF values of cotton fabrics. Among all treated fabrics in the study, chitosan-Rosa Canina water treated fabrics showed the highest UPF value.
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Abstract: In today's globalized world, rapid depletion of natural resources, increased air and water pollution, deforestation and climate change are major environmental problems for industrial activities. Many industrial activities contribute to environmental pollution by causing these problems. Therefore, it is of great importance to develop environmentally friendly production methods, reduce resource consumption and minimize environmental impacts. The yarn dyeing industry is a sector where natural resources are used intensively and environmental pollution problems are seen. Innovations in this sector aim to make production methods more sustainable. In particular, process reduction is an important step in reducing resource consumption and minimizing environmental impacts. This provides an important opportunity to conserve natural resources and produce environmentally friendly products. Therefore, with the increasing demand for ecological products, it is aimed to develop an environmentally friendly, sustainable and environmentally sensitive process in yarn dyeing. With the new process developed within the scope of the project, a dyeing study was carried out using the natural color of raw cotton yarn. The first bath pre-treatment we apply to raw cotton yarn allows us to make homogeneous dyeing. Thus, it was possible to reduce the need for some chemicals and natural resources that are harmful to nature. The new process developed within the scope of the project is gaining importance in the textile industry due to limited natural resources and increasing environmental problems. The aim of the project is to reduce the use of water, energy and chemicals by eliminating the bleaching step used in traditional yarn dyeing processes and to create an environmentally friendly product platform. In this way, with the increasing demand for ecological and sustainable products, customer expectations can be met and the company's environmental impact can be reduced. In addition, this new process, which saves energy and water, offers the opportunity to gain a competitive advantage by providing cost savings in the textile industry. Therefore, the new process developed sets an example for other businesses in the sector, benefiting both the environment and the operation of the company.
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Abstract: Abstract: Improving the environmental impact of textile waste is essential for the good functioning of the planet, as it is not viable to prolong the recycling of textile materials indefinitely due to the loss of properties. The presence of dyes in fabrics is a key point to study from the perspective of biodegradability, as the presence of these dyes in effluents is widely studied due to their high polluting impact on water. This project has analysed whether the presence of dyes in fabrics affects their biodegradability process. In addition, it has been studied whether finishing with laccase enzyme, which is usually used to purify the wastewater from the dyes of the indigo blue dye used, influences the degradation of the fabric. For this purpose, dyed and undyed cotton fabrics impregnated with this enzyme were analysed. Following the proposed measurement protocol, it has been defined that fabrics dyed with the indigo blue dye (VAT BLUE I) have a positive influence on degradation, while the presence of small doses of compounds added to the fibres, such as the laccase enzyme studied in this case, can lead to the generation of deviations in the biodegradability of the sample. Although the efficiency and efficacy of this enzyme in dye degradation under anaerobic conditions has been demonstrated, under compost conditions its effectiveness decreases and negatively influences the biodegradability process. No ecotoxicity is shown in soil after the biodegradation process. Keywords: Sustainability; laccase; vat dye; textile; environment; burial.
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Abstract: Microplastics, fragments of plastics from regular use, are causing severe environmental hazards and health dangers. They could be ingested by marine animals and further enter the human food chain. Research shows that the majority of the microplastics (35%) released in the environment are from textiles. Therefore, there is an increasing interest in the studies of microplastics released from textiles to control the pollution from their origin. To understand the microplastics released from textiles, the properties of microplastics are important. However, the definition of microplastics is still confusing as most of the studies consider microplastics to have a size of < 5 mm, as defined by Arthur (2009). But microplastics from textiles are mainly in the form of fibre, which is shape dependent. In textiles, microfibre has its definition with diameters measuring < 10 µm. The difference between the two definitions produces confusion and makes it hard to compare results within the literature. Although some researchers proposed terms, such as ‘fibrous microplastics’, ‘fibre fragments’ or ‘fibre shedding’, there is no international consent on the fibre-shaped microplastics till now. This paper endeavours to unite the current terms used for microplastics or microfibre from textile inspection and provide a new definition of fibre-shaped microplastics to avoid further confusion.
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Abstract: Cotton dominates the natural fibre market worldwide, as evidenced by its 24% market share. Australia is a major exporter of cotton, following China, India and the United States. The industry is significant for Australia, generating $2 billion dollars in exports per annum and employing approximately 10,000 people across the industry. However, sustainability concerns associated with cotton production, as well as evolving consumer awareness and an increase in sustainability initiatives and regulation, have brought sustainability to the forefront of the Australian cotton industry's agenda. The paper will provide a contextual review of the various sustainability aspects of cotton, such as genetically modified and non-genetically modified cotton, credible claims around environmental impacts, chain of custody and circularity approaches. This paper draws on publicly available information including industry reports, news articles, and certification websites. The paper provides valuable insights into the sustainability challenges for the Australian cotton industry, which can inform policymakers, industry stakeholders and consumers.
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Abstract: The world's design industry has suffered from the transformation from single-product design to mass-produced product design and the industrial revolution that today is the Industrial Revolution 4.0 and 5.0. Similarly, the design industry in Vietnam also has to go through that transformation process to develop, in which the team of trained designers plays a vital role in the transformation process and development. Around the world, research on the transformation process of design types, concepts, classifications, design processes, and their applications in all areas of life are the core bases for building goals, content, and methods of human resource training programs in the design industry. This article summarizes some typical design concepts and research results on the current situation, trends, and needs of the design industry in the world and Vietnam. On that basis, propose directions to supplement knowledge and develop design human resource training, especially in the fashion design industry, for the current economy in Vietnam.
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Abstract: Skilled workers in the apparel industry possess the knowledge and expertise required to produce high-quality garments. Their proficiency ensures that products meet or exceed industry standards, resulting in customer satisfaction and repeat business. Skilled workers also tend to be more efficient and productive, reducing waste and increasing overall production output. Nowadays, the apparel industry faces problems like unskilled labour and a lack of seriousness from top management regarding the training of workers. Many factors impact the effectiveness of training centres. The apparel industry has no designed parameters to gauge the training centre's efficiency. This study investigated the presence and effectiveness of training centres in the apparel industry using data collected through a Google Form survey and analysed using SPSS and AMOS software. Results show that enhancements are needed in management behaviour, trainee and trainer's role, infrastructure, tools and equipment to ensure that training programs meet industry requirements and produce competent professionals. By implementing the recommendations highlighted in this research, training centres can enhance their effectiveness and contribute to developing a skilled and competitive workforce in the apparel industry.
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Abstract: The COVID-19 pandemic significantly impacted the textile industry's supply chain management leading to unprecedented disruptions in global trade and manufacturing operations. This paper presents an overview of the challenges faced by the textile industry during the pandemic and how supply chain management strategies are being restructured to mitigate risks and ensure business continuity. The pandemic highlighted the need for greater visibility and transparency in supply chains as well as the importance of diversification of suppliers and production facilities. Many new challenges in data quality were also exposed. This paper discusses the implications of these changes for the future of the textile industry and new thinking needed in managing supply chains.
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Abstract: When an astronaut transitions out of the weightless environment of space (e.g., landing on Earth, Mars, or the Moon), they can experience balance and co-ordination issues due to sensorimotor dysfunction. This paper details the development of the base layer garment for a Sensorimotor Countermeasure Skinsuit (SMCS), and test ideas to improve comfort and mobility through considered patternmaking techniques. A Version 1 (V1) SMCS base layer was made-to-measure for one participant. The garment was assessed for comfort and mobility through a series of tests: sit and reach (S&R), active range-of-motion (ROM) joint angles, and timed up and go (TU&G), etc. The SMCS V1 caused a restriction to mobility, and scored high discomfort ratings, when compared to a baseline of loose gym clothing. A Version 2 (V2) SMCS base layer was developed with an objective of improving upon the discomfort and mobility ratings. The SMCS V2 base layer garment was assessed and was found to have improved discomfort ratings (= ‘Minor discomfort if worn all day’) when compared to the SMCS V1 (≥ ‘Too uncomfortable to wear all day’). The SMCS V2 base layer garment was found to have improved mobility during S&R tests and TU&G tests when compared to the results from SMCS V1. The SMCS V2 base layer garment was also found to have improved active ROM during shoulder extension, shoulder abduction, hip flexion, and knee flexion, when compared to the SMCS V1. However, active ROM decreased during hip-extension and hip-abduction.The results of this study can be used to advance the design of compression garments that are used within the sports and medical industries.
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