Seam Puckering: Analysis and Modeling with Structural Equation Modeling

Article Preview

Abstract:

Research on parameters influencing seam pucker has been quite intensive in the past decade. The difficulties associated with accurate predictions of the interaction between sewing parameters and fabrics properties. Traditional approach of matching variety of sewing parameters with unlimited fabric properties through personal experience has been a challenge in the apparel industry which increased the cost of production due to reprocess or rejection. Hence, in the present study, an alternative mathematical modeling known as Structural Equation Modeling (SEM) was proposed to predict the seam puckering grading together with the usage of high end instrumentation for fabric known as Kawabata Evaluation System (KES-F). The KES-F determined 16 parameters related to handle properties of a fabric and SEM produced prediction equation based on a few selected important parameters. The results show that equation by SEM can be used to predict the level of seam puckering of different categories of fabric weights. Good comparisons with the experimental and previous studies demonstrate the ability of the model to be used as a predictive tool for textile materials particularly for seam puckering.

You might also be interested in these eBooks

Info:

Periodical:

Pages:

157-162

Citation:

Online since:

September 2013

Export:

Price:

Permissions CCC:

Permissions PLS:

Сopyright:

© 2013 Trans Tech Publications Ltd. All Rights Reserved

Share:

Citation:

[1] S. Inui and T. Yamanaka, Seam pucker simulation. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 10 (1998) 128-142.

DOI: 10.1108/09556229810213836

Google Scholar

[2] I. Shigeru, Objective evaluation of seam pucker. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 4 (1992) 24.

Google Scholar

[3] S. Kawabata, M. Niwa et al., Recent developments in the Evaluation Technology of fiber and Textiles: Toward the Engineered Design of Textile Performance. Journal of Applied Polymer Science, 83 (2002) 687-702.

DOI: 10.1002/app.2264

Google Scholar

[4] C.L. Hui and S.F. Ng, Predicting seam performance of commercial woven fabrics using multiple logarithm regression and artificial neural networks. Textile Research Journal, (2009) 1-9.

DOI: 10.1177/0040517509104758

Google Scholar

[5] C.K. Park and T.J. Kang, Objective Evaluation of Seam Pucker Using Artificial Intelligence: Part I: Geometric Modeling of Seam Pucker. Textile Research Journal, 69(10) (1999) 735 - 742.

DOI: 10.1177/004051759906901006

Google Scholar

[6] J. Fan and F.Liu, Objective Evaluation of Garment Seams Using 3D Laser Scanning Technology. Textile Research Journal, 70(11) (2000) 1025-1030.

DOI: 10.1177/004051750007001114

Google Scholar

[7] T.J. Kang and J.Y. Lee, Objective Evaluation of Fabric Wrinkles and Seam Puckers Using Fractal Geometry. Textile Research Journal, 70(6) (2000) 469-475.

DOI: 10.1177/004051750007000601

Google Scholar

[8] G. Stylios, The principles of intelligent textile and garment manufacturing systems. Assembly Automation, 16(3) (1996) 40-44.

DOI: 10.1108/01445159610126429

Google Scholar

[9] R.H. Gong and Y. Chen, Predicting the Performance of Fabrics in Garment Manufacturing with Artificial Neural Networks. Textile Research Journal, 69(7) (1999) 477-482.

DOI: 10.1177/004051759906900703

Google Scholar

[10] M.F. Yahya, J. Salleh, W.Y.W. Ahmad, and S.A. Ghani, Finite Element Analysis of Impactor Shapes Effects on Puncture Damage of Plian Woven Fabrics, Colloqium on Humanities, Science and Engineering Research, IEEE Symposium on 2012, 729-734.

DOI: 10.1109/chuser.2012.6504408

Google Scholar

[11] S.A. Ghani, M.F. Yahya and H. Gong, Structural Equation Modelling of Seam Failure Analysis. Colloqium on Humanities, Science and Engineering Research, IEEE Symposium on 2012, 736-739.

Google Scholar

[12] BS:EN-ISO:13934-1, Textiles-Tensile properties of fabrics-Part1:Determination of maximum force and elongation at maximum force using the strip method, British Standard, (1999) 1-10.

DOI: 10.3403/01736255

Google Scholar

[13] AATCC88B, Smoothness of Seams in fabrics after repeated home laundering. American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (2006).

Google Scholar

[14] D. Germanova-Krasteva and H. Petrov, Investigation on the seam's quality by sewing of light fabrics. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 20(1) (2007) 57-64.

DOI: 10.1108/09556220810843539

Google Scholar

[15] D. Rumsey, Statistics for dummies. Indianapolis, Wiley Publishing Inc. 2003.

Google Scholar

[16] M. Niwa and Y. Yamada, Prediction of seam pucker of shingosen fabrics woven with micro denier fibres. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 3(3) (1991) 7-10.

DOI: 10.1108/eb002974

Google Scholar

[17] C.L. Hui and S.F. Ng, Predicting seam performance of commercial woven fabrics using multiple logarithm regression and artificial neural networks. Textile Research Journal, (2009) 1-9.

DOI: 10.1177/0040517509104758

Google Scholar