Advanced Materials Research Vols. 821-822

Abstract: Weightless and narrow environment inside the spacecraft and on-orbit work require a lot in astronauts’ IVA clothing. Motion analysis suggests one-piece overall design should base on the curled stance. Toileting structure design which can overcome the one-piece overall’s toileting shortcoming especially for female is essential. 2 female IVA clothing with different structures are developed, then toileting time consuming test and static range-of-motion test are operated to select a better design. Result shows that style 2 performs better when toileting, and not only fits better, but also can provide the same flexibility compare with style 1, which integrates the protection, fitness and mobility.

Abstract: Plane cut-out and expansion method is used for clothing structure, based on clothing pattern design through paralleled expansion method and revolved expansion method. Plait is an important element of clothing design with strong 3D effects which mainly includes natural plait and regular plait. Plane cut-out and expansion method should be used flexibly in order to design different styles of clothing plaits. The conclusion provides reference for costume styling designer.

Abstract: Yao is a nationality with multiple branches and colorful clothes. Researches on clothing of Yao Nationality are mainly on descriptions of culture and superficial characteristics of their clothes. Few of them carefully research on sihouette,structure and craftsmanship, so are the researches on Huatouyao Clothing. This article has made detailed record and research on Huatouyao Women's Dress at Fangchenggang, Guangxi from sihouette,structure and craft of dress through field investigation and actual measurement. It helps to make people know what Huatouyao Clothing looks like and it provides operable reference while recovering inheritance clothes.

Abstract: This paper introduces the definition of ottoman stitch in details, provides some fabric panels of ottoman and describes the appearance of fabric structure. In addition, the knitting method and technology design for whole-ottoman and part-ottoman in Knit CAD are introduced and analyzed respectively. Finally, some typical examples for application of ottoman on sweater design are enumerated, which can enlarge and enrich the fields of sweater design.

Abstract: This study is directed at the shoulder, back and breast of female to sum up its parts variation law and set up the relationship between figure variable of these three parts and pattern graphic, and thus complete the basic study of human figure characteristics corresponding to the digitalized prototype pattern of female coat. It is a basic study for female coat prototype pattern automatic design system of special figure, which sets up the relevant relationship between female figure characteristics and coat prototype structural feature and to guarantee the consistency of figure and pattern design in the process of garment PCAD system pattern intelligent design. It provides the possibility for the study of intelligent female coat pattern design system based on the figure and has a positive effect on changing the traditional pattern design concept and means.

Abstract: Based on brand model and core dimensions analysis, Chinese fashion customization brand can be classified to three main kinds. Deeply interview and questionnaires faced to specialists, core customers and relative employees in fashion customization field contribute to the choice of four aspects of brand elements and nineteen sub-degree indexes. Then Chinese fashion customization brand elements evaluation index hierarchical structure can be built, which depends on the analytic hierarchy process. Simultaneously, core customization design elements can be extracted from the result of weights calculation.

Abstract: Through the analysis of the shape structure and wearing form of Mashan No. 1 Chu-state tomb one-piece clothes in Jingzhou, Hubei, it can be discovered that the shape of Mashan No. 1 Chu-state tomb one-piece clothes is extremely wide and long; Also, the unique wearing method enables this sort of clothes to be flattened to be curving lower hem circling around body after wearing straight lower hem. This coincides completely with the wearing form lacquer painting, silk painting and wooden warriors wearing being unearthed from Chu-state tomb at the same period of time, which impacts the formation and development of curving lower hem clothes that is unearthed from Mawangdui Han tomb, belonging to Chu culture system as well.

Abstract: The purpose was to demonstrate a process to characterize a segment of a university collection from an object base using an existing aesthetic framework. A collection consisting of 40 Chinese Qipaos in the Republic Period were analyzed for their repetitive and defining features. Qipaos were selected as examples of defining features and analyzed using the concept of structuring within Delongs framework of visual analysis. This process demonstrated how aesthetics could be applied to raise awareness of artifacts within the collection. The result was a characterization of the collection in the Republic Period in terms of defining features that included structuring and the visual result of an intergration of layout and surface.

Abstract: Lu embroidery, one of the famous embroideries in Shandong province of China, is the earliest recorded Chinese embroidered species found in historical documents of China. Lu embroidery patterns on costumes have a wide range of subjects; their folk contents coagulate plenty of folk emotions. The motifs of Lu embroidery patterns on costumes express the totemism and the nature worship. They are the rites of passage and spiritual religious expressions. The cultural connotations in Lu embroidery patterns on costumes can inspire current designs, provide useful references for contemporary fashion designers and promote the development of embroidery costume markets.

Abstract: Excellent fashion designers express their design originality beginning from the design of fabric fiber. Nowadays, the clothing materials existing on the market can not meet the requirements of designers' creativity.So this leads to fabrics re-creation. This thesis analysed various methods of current major fabric recreation,which can broad the design perspectives of the designers and convey the design concept better.