Surf Shoaling and Breaking on Two-Slope Flume Experiments

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Abstract:

A flume experiment is carried out to explore regular waves shoaling and breaking in surf zone. The topography is two-slope model, which is composed of a steep slope 1:5 and a gentle slope 1:40. The incidence waves have heights of 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09 and 0.10 m, and periods of 1.0 sec. In order to describe the wave propagation in surf zone, wave height is collected by wave gauges and wave breaking is recorded by high-speed camera. The results show that, when incidence height is increased, the breaking height increases, while the location of breaking point moves forward. When the incidence height is larger enough, the trend slow down. Besides, secondary breakup is observed in case 0.08, 0.09 and 0.10m. The transient period from primary breakup to secondary breakup is a very important phase. Computing and forecasting methods of surf with complicated topography need further study.

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Periodical:

Advanced Materials Research (Volumes 971-973)

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760-763

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June 2014

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© 2014 Trans Tech Publications Ltd. All Rights Reserved

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