Advances in Science and Technology Vol. 113

Abstract: This study presents the applicability of ergonomics in clothing for bodies in transformation, namely for elderly women aged 65 and over. The proposal focused on an audience that deserves attention with regard to a design product for everyday use, namely clothing that is suitable for a new physical constitution. The purpose of this article is to present the ergonomic, technical and aesthetic factors, considering the physical, psychological and social needs of this target group, for the development of clothing products. Considering the identified needs, materials and methods were suggested for the development of models with specific particularities, appropriate to the real condition of these elderly women. In addition to the bibliographic research carried out, specific methods were used to collect anthropometric measurements, surveys were implemented, and direct observation was also carried out with the target group. The results obtained demonstrated that the methods and techniques applied in the development of a more comfortable and aesthetically pleasing clothing were effective, having been observed that the ergonomic variable of comfort was the one that most impacted at the time of the product development process. It was possible to conclude that the complete assessment of body transformation contributed significantly to the development of clothing with characteristics of comfort and protection that respond to the needs of this segment of the population.

Abstract: The article discusses the possible ways to change and develop t-shirt patterns by applying methods of zero and less waste design - by assessing the manifestation of the reduction from the cut-off fabric in the cut and sew production system at the pre-consumer stage. The main research focus is on a classical T-shirt that generates 15% and could reach up to 25% pre-consumer waste when producing mass production, batch, or individual garments. To research T-shirt optimization possibilities, sources were gathered from existing zero and less waste patterns from practising designers. Through practical research, samples were analysed and compared to maintain the T-shirt's function, aesthetical requirements, and fit.

Abstract: The paper seeks to unfold the interrelationship and interaction between architecture and fashion disciplines. This research aims to explore ways of introducing architectural and computational tools into design processes of a fashion collection. In terms of methodology, the catalogue of the exhibition “RRRIPP!! Paper Fashion” which describes the history of paper garments was studied, in combination with an analysis of Iris Van Herpens’ parametric dresses via architectural diagrams. Different styles and the development of their patterns were also studied, overcoming the lack of pattern making and anthropometry knowledge that architects could face. A series of experimentations were made, using the paper as the main material. In these experimentations the paper was transformed into a garment that dresses the body via folding techniques, by following: Folding techniques for designers. The results revealed that the body is the main axis of the design process. Based on this conclusion an algorithm was developed, in 3D software platforms, as a solution/tool for the experimentations but also for a broader use from a fashion expert. The algorithm needs as an input the persons’ body measurements, such as the circumference of bust, waist, hips etc. and outputs the digital 3D representation of that specific body. This algorithm converts each different and unique body type into an asset for both exhibitional and design purposes. Α paper garment was finally developed by using the algorithm and the paper models that were the result of the experimentation process. Different folding techniques were applied on the paper that transformed it into a “smart” surface that combines the principles of shape, structure and ornament. The final product proves that architectural tools can cooperate well with the fashion disciplines in order to provide unique results.

Abstract: Drowning is a dramatic situation, with very serious consequences and with economic impact, since when it does not cause death, causes sequelae that will affect the victim throughout his life. With regard to children, the prevalence of drowning death is higher than deaths caused by tuberculosis or measles. Considering the context of these accidents, it is known that the immersion occurs without shouting or "noises", which makes it even more difficult to detect and rescue. Rescue agility is crucial for the survival of victims, as after being submerged for only 2 minutes, the victim loses consciousness and after 4 minutes brain damage can become permanent and unalterable. Even if they survive from being submerged for some time, the victims may suffer from severe and often irreversible neurological sequelae [1, 2]. From this perspective, developing safety mechanisms for children requires knowledge of the unique needs of these individuals, arising from the cognitive and motor development of this stage of human development [3, 4]. To foster this problem, the work proposes to develop a usual garment that contains an integrated rescue device for children. The main design challenge is the harmonious matching of the rescue device's function with the fashion item, making it unnoticed. The work presented is feasibility study (online survey), which aims to verify the acceptance of parents/guardians regarding the launch of such product concept, which is presently under development, and the requisites that it should comply with.

Abstract: Anthropometric data are essential for applying ergonomic principles to the design of a wide range of products and are paramount when developing personal protective equipment. In the case of occupations that deal with extreme circumstances, as is the case of firefighting, a proper fit and sizing of personal protective equipment is related not only with work performance and comfort but also with protection level. The increase in the number of female firefighters have raised the discussion about the barriers and challenges faced by women in firefighting. Issues with the fit of personal protective equipment commonly appear among physical and psychological stressors encountered by female firefighters. The need to provide gender-specific protective equipment for such professionals is highlighted by many studies. Furthermore, significant anthropometric differences among specialized occupational groups have also been found. However, anthropometric databases on firefighters are still very limited. Aiming to fulfill this shortcoming as well as to understand if Portuguese firefighters’ protective equipment is adjusted to their anthropometrics, a study designated as Size FF Portugal – Anthropometric Study of Portuguese Firefighters is currently underway. This paper presents a preliminary comparison of anthropometric data of female firefighters from two different fire brigades located in the North of Portugal. Stature and body weight measurements of 30 participants were analyzed using both descriptive and inferential statistics. Results show that there were not statistically significant differences on the average stature nor on the average body weight of female firefighters from both brigades. Moreover, significant differences were not found when comparing their types of commitment for both considered measurements. However, the comparison of stature data of female firefighters with two available anthropometric databases of the Portuguese population presented statistically significant differences. These results corroborate similar research and highlight the relevance of the on-going study. A discussion regarding the results is presented, taking into consideration the current stage of the study and its limitations.

Abstract: Between Brazil and Portugal, bobbin lace is a practice that constitutes a cultural value without borders. But there is a serious risk of discontinuity of this tradition, due to the low demand for these lace associated with the decrease in the number of lacemakers, the lack of adaptation of contemporary computerized techniques, and to lack of interest of the younger generations. In the process of creating and making bobbin lace, it is possible to identify a particular problem that design can collaborate with. As a crucial component, the importance of the “piques” design for the process of making original laces is highlighted. There are few lacemakers who are specialized in the task of creating new “pique”. This research proposes the creation of a software that facilitates the recording of memory and the creation of new designs for bobbin lace. A bibliographical research was carried out in order to analyze possible existing similar solutions. For the proposition of the new software based on the resolution of a real problem and on the user's needs, it was decided to approach the interaction design methodologies

Abstract: Some fashion brands and designers have been developing services and products in the last decade taking similarly, into consideration consumers that have some disability. Knowing that visual communication of a brand itself is not possible with unsighted consumers, it is necessary and relevant to investigate how consumers can create an emotional attachment with fashion brands. This paper aims to analyze the inclusive design approach and methods. Attending to the following question of investigation, “how visually impaired consumers are able to create an emotional relationship with fashion brands” the methodology for this paper is based on a mixed methodology. The literature review is based on scientific papers, informative articles, books, and report analysis. Regardless of the product or services, clothing brands established in Portugal usually do not have an inclusive approach. A set of hypotheses were formulated from the literature review analysis, which will be further tested using the data collected. It was not possible to set up the empirical study winch will be carried out in the future. This study will be of added value to guide future investigations and endorse the possible future success of fashion brands and designers in Portugal in the field of accessibility and inclusive design.

Abstract: This paper aims to discuss the use of Additive Manufacturing (AM) to produce textile samples. The goal is to explore different possibilities in the creation of different stimuli regarding textures and scents coming from the application of different types of filaments on different textile surfaces, with different weights and compositions. Considering the application of this technology in fashion products, particularly on clothing, the different textile samples developed, will be evaluated by visually impaired (VI) individuals on further empirical studies. Since unsighted individuals are regarded as more sensitive to tactile and olfactory experiences, it is important to understand their perception regarding AM acceptance. Having into account the perspective of fashion design towards inclusivity, the availability of different sensory inputs in common fashion brands could improve the relationship between visually impaired (VI) consumers and fashion brands. This paper fills the gap in the literature regarding unsighted individuals and their experiences with clothing, especially those using AM technology. Keywords: Additive Manufacturing; textile surfaces; visually impaired individuals;

Abstract: Fashion, as a simultaneously cultural and global phenomenon, has become an attractive factor in many cities, particularly the large metropolises where it assumes a prominent role, as in Paris, London, Milan, or New York. In countries where fashion does not assume notoriety and global prestige, there is an emergence of fashion movements more associated with local cultural characteristics, which are used by fashion designers as sources of inspiration and differentiation.In major cities, world-renowned designers and brands take on recognized importance, and the attractiveness that fashion districts have on visitors is notorious. In smaller cities, however, generally associated with cultural and artistic heritage, fashion appears in some places as a specific offer, marked by originality and differentiation of historical roots or inspired by local culture. The interest in fashion, in general, leads the management of territories to associate the local dynamics of fashion creation with shopping tourism, creating specific itineraries and infrastructures, in an attempt to follow the example of the big cities and, thus, develop the fashion business by increasing the reasons of interest to visitors.The study aims to analyse the dynamics of development of the fashion business in medium-sized cities with strong tourist attractiveness, to design a territory management model that maximizes the notoriety of local fashion, and stimulates economic activities directly and indirectly related to fashion.