Advanced Materials Research Vol. 796

Abstract: She's traditional costumes are both tangible and intangible cultural heritage, which do not only have a high aesthetic value, but also embody She's enduring beliefs and characters. However, with the economic development, social progress, especially technology updates and promotion of the traffic and media, the protective barrier of She's original cultural environment formed naturally by the geographical environment in the past have gradually disappeared. She's traditional culture, including costume culture, is rapidly weakening and lost. Based on the fieldwork of She ethnic minority areas in Zhejiang, Fujian, Jiangxi Provinces of the East China, as well as the costumes and their cultural background information, this article analyzes three aspects of She's ecological concepts shown in costumes, as "Harmony between Man and Nature" - the Understanding of Environment, "Make the best use of things" - the understanding of the finiteness of natural resources, and ¡°Survival of the Fittest¡± - the Relationship between Ecosystem and Costume. She's costumes reflect a natural living environment, as well as a mode of the production and technical status of the She people. At the meantime, they reflect the national consciousness, the religious conceptions, the social attitudes, and aesthetic tendencies state of the She people, which embody the mutual relations and interactions of natural ecosystems and human cultural ecosystem.

Abstract: Fabric, our second skin with moisture and thermal capacity for skin temperature regulation, can arouse feelings of pleasant and discomfort. To examine the neurocognitive ability and emotion of fabric tactile perception under different local temperatures, we used functional magnetic resonance imaging with the same denim fabric stimuli and forearm contact area, and found a functional dissociation: the affective regions was more involved during warm condition; the discriminative regions were more involved during neutral condition; the basis regions were significance during cool condition. The higher local skin temperature environment can result in the improvement of sensitivity and discriminability by dorsal pathway (spatial) and ventral pathway (frequency) for fabric perception. Our results help to explain how the brain uses internal models to interpret external fabric tactile stimuli with micro environmental change.

Abstract: As the national quality of life is increasing, theres a growing number of people who prefer to select the textiles with certain functionality rather than purchase the one simply as a warm or aesthetics. This paper centers on antimicrobial textiles and uses the form of a questionnaire combining with the basic requirements of people in the choice of functional textiles to identify the factors that influence consumers’ purchasing of antibacterial textiles, which provides the basis for more extensive application of antimicrobial textiles.

Abstract: To establish the evaluation model of the garment fabric, the method of fuzzy system theory was used to value the the mechanical properties of one bias cut garment’s the fabric and improved gray correlation degree analysis was used to calculate the weight of each properties index. The subjective judgment on fabric was quantitatively processed, which further refine the complex optimal selection of fabric problem and provided a new way for the optimization of garment fabrics.

Abstract: Consumers around the world became aware that "the environmenta and climate chang" is one of the most important social issues through experiencing rapid climate shift. Consuming patterns have changed according to heightening of interest in the environment and over a quarter of consumers showed their purchasing preference for eco-friendly products even though they are more expensive. Consumers' eco-friend propensity has affected retailers and manufacturers. The purposes of this study were to identify the concept of fashion up-cycling and to analyze up-cycling fashion brands. The definition of up-cycling in fashion industries is to manufacture highly susceptible and high-valued fashion products with creative idea or design inspiration by using second hand resources. There are similar terms such as trashion(trash + fashion), redesign, and remanufacturing. Techniques for fashion up-cycling drawn from case analysis of fashion companies were redesigning old fashioned clothing in their storehouses, redesigning small pieces of textiles from sewing companies, and redesigning second hand clothing with creative ideas or inspiration.

Abstract: Mainly from the perspectives of technology, design and application, this paper studied how to take use of digital printing technology to make silk garments feature more modern aesthetic value, and expand the application space of silk fabrics in modern clothing. Through the investigation of the whole production process currently, this paper gave a summary of the status quo and existing problems of digital positioning printing on cutting pieces, and put forward an optimization of the overall design and production process. A simulating practical production process in CAD software is applied to verify the optimized process. It is considered that the rise of digital printing technology pulls the direction of fashion design toward the Eastern from the Western system, the former one focusing on decorative patterns and the later on perspective and structure. The aim of this paper is to promote new thinking and develop silk fabrics and silk clothing, which have more modern aesthetic value, through the investigation of the application of digital printing technology in modern silk clothing, so as to make silk the symbol of Chinese civilization recover its vitality.

Abstract: With the improvement of living standards, people are increasingly more demands on the dress. Study on the clothing comfort more and more. Clothing pressure comfort is an important aspect of clothing comfort. Dynamic clothing pressure is the interaction between human body and clothing. It is related to clothing styles, fabrics property, clothing structure, body motions, etc. The clothing pressure on different position of body was measured when arms were raised to different position. The pressures on the back, shoulder, arms, waist were discussed in this paper. The biggest pressure was on arms, and all interviewees could feel it.

Abstract: Silk scarf, which is an important accessory for a woman, is far behind in the design level compared with the garment nowadays. The indisputable fact is that the consumer group of scarf is gradually reducing, and the most style of current silk scarf can not cohere with womens modern dress anymore. This paper discusses the innovative design of silk scarf on subjects, art form etc. by using traditional element of Suzhou embroidery. By this way, modern silk scarf can cater to consumers demand and play an important role in fashion.

Abstract: In order to analyze the influence of dimensional stability on overfeed sewing shrinkage of wool fabric, the paper used theoretical analysis equation to evaluate and overfeed sewing shrinkage of wool-type fabrics and took water shrinkage as index of dimensional stability to analyze its influence on overfeed sewing shrinkage characteristic value such as connection length, fabric connection length ratio. The research revealed the relationship of dimensional stability and overfeed sewing shrinkage, and derived calculation method of oblique shrinkage based on analysis of warp and weft shrinkage. It provided the theory reference on sewing quality of wool fabric in apparel manufacture and use.

Abstract: To investigate heat and moisture transfer mechanisms of the pilots anti-G suit with phase change materials and improve the thermal performance of the garment, a mathematical model for pilot-anti-G suit-environment system is developed. In the model, the coupled heat and moisture transfer and thermal regulation process of phase change materials (PCM) in the anti-G suit are considered, and an 85-node thermal regulatory model is used to simulate human thermal responses. The model is validated by literature experimental data. Then, the parameter effects of PCM on the thermal stress index of the pilot are analyzed based on orthogonal calculation method by utilizing the model. Conclusion shows that the more PCM content and higher latent heat become, the less thermal stress index is.