Silk

Volumes 175-176

doi: 10.4028/www.scientific.net/AMR.175-176

Paper Title Page

Authors: Xin Guo, Ming Luo, Peng Zi Sun
Abstract: Effect of web cleaner on front plate suction form of carding machine on the quality of card sliver was studied. The card slivers processed by carding machine with web cleaner installed on the front plate using single and double sides suction forms were tested by Premier aQura. The results show that, when the suction volume is between 120~240m3/h, the range of short fiber content in card sliver is 12.03~14.0% in the single side suction and is 15.6~16.8% in the double sides suction; 5% length of fiber in card sliver is between 34.03~34.04mm in the single side suction and is between 33.64~33.83mm in the double sides suction; effective length of fiber in card sliver is from 29.71mm to 29.80mm in the single side suction and is from 29.52mm to 29.55mm in the double sides suction; total neps in card sliver is between 51~55cnt/g in the single side suction and is between 57~59cnt/g in the double sides suction. Thus it can be seen that under the same suction volume, the front web cleaner with single side suction is more beneficial to improving the quality of card sliver, so it is better for the front web cleaner to use single side suction form.
514
Authors: Wei Zhang, Chun Xia Wang, Yu Yue Chen, You Gang Cheng
Abstract: A kind of low molecular weight of chitosan was modified to water-soluble chitosan quaternary ammonium salt (short for HTCC) in this paper, where after, the Bombyx mori silk fiber and fabric were both treated by HTCC solution. The aggregation structure of silk fiber and the antibacterial performance and dyeing behavior of silk fabric treated by HTCC were investigated. The FT-IR and NMR results indicated that the substitution reaction mainly occurred on the amine groups of chitosan, and up to 90% substitution degree was obtained. Compared with chitosan, the solubility of HTCC was improved after modification. In addition, the crystallinity and the thermodynamic stability of silk fiber were improved after treated by HTCC solution, and the decomposition temperature increased from 318.93°C to 326.45°C. The antibacterial performance of silk fabrics to coli and staphylococcus were both significantly improved after treated by HTCC,and the inhibitory rate of silk fabrics had no significant decrease even though after soaping 30 times. Furthermore, the dyeing behaviors of silk fabrics to acid dyes and reactive dyes were improved, and the dyeing rate, the color fixing rate and the K/S value also increased.
518
Authors: Mei Du, Li Bin Lv
Abstract: In this paper, by comparing the properties of polyester/cotton/silk three-component Sirofil composite yarn and traditional cotton yarn, polyester/cotton core-spun yarn, silk/cotton two-component Sirofil composite yarn, the structural characteristics of three-component Sirofil composite yarn and the relationship between its structure and property were explored. There was the inhibition effect of cotton fiber on polyester filament, so the frictional and cohesive force between cotton fiber and polyester filament could be enhanced. The tenacity of polyester filament and cotton fiber were very good and the wrapping effect of raw silk could enhance the cohesive force between cotton fibers, cotton fiber and polyester filament. Therefore, the strength of composite yarn was obviously increased and the abrasive resistance and anti-stripping wool property were also greatly enhanced. Secondly, hairiness between raw silk and fiber strand was very easily captured by raw silk and there was the wrapping effect of raw silk on fiber strand in the composite spinning, so some hairiness was covered by raw silk, which could decrease the length of hairiness or eliminate hairiness. Furthermore, much more uniform raw silk and polyester filaments were added, which could increase the yarn evenness of Sirofil composite yarn.
524
Authors: Kai Yang, Ming Li Jiao, Ying Xiong, Wei Yuan Zhang
Abstract: Moisture handling property of fabric has been regarded as a major factor in the comfort performance of clothing in normal use. Especially in different environmental temperature conditions, fabric’s moisture comfort property has different manifestation. In this paper, a series of experiments and analyses were performed on studying the dynamic moisture transferring procedure and evaluating moisture comfort property of fabric under different environmental temperature conditions. By Textile-Microclimate Measuring Instrument, five different fiber fabrics’ dynamic experiments were performed in different environmental temperature conditions. By measuring the real time changes of relative humidity in inner and outer surfaces of test fabrics, fabrics’ dynamic comprehensive index was obtained to characterize fabrics’ dynamic moisture comfort property under different temperature conditions. Finally, grey system theory was introduced to establish models that could describe the relationship between the static parameters and the dynamic comprehensive index. The grey interrelationship analysis was performed firstly to find out the static parameters that have high degree of association with dynamic comprehensive index. And then the grey mathematics modeling method was performed to establish models predicting the dynamic comprehensive index using static parameters. In three different temperature conditions, three different prediction models were built and high predictive precision was obtained.
529
Authors: Yi Weng, Li Jun Li, Feng Fang Li
Abstract: The scratchiness of ramie fabric, to some extent, restricts the development of ramie products, although it has been improved of the underwear ramie fabric to a certain degree, however, it is at the cost of sacrificing the unique style of ramie fabric. How to keep the special style of ramie fabric and eliminate scratchiness in the meantime is yet to be solved. This study analyzed the causes for scratchiness, discussed how to choose the fabric’s geometry, density and tightness, and established a theoretical formula for the geometric structure of non-tight structure ramie fabric, as well as warp and weft density and tightness, further more, the study proposed a structural phase range and maximum weave tightness to overcome the ramie fabric’s scratchiness. All of these offered the theoretical basis for ramie fabric design.
534
Authors: Tong Hong Xu, Ping Gu, Hong Sun
Abstract: In order to compare the difference of processing properties between domestic and abroad light wool fabrics, the paper selects 35 kinds of light worsted fabrics by using FAST testing machine and principal component analysis to make a comprehensive evaluation. The results indicate that processing properties of domestic and abroad light wool fabrics can be represented by using seven principal component indexs, such as formability, hygral expansion, thickness, relaxation shrinkage.
539
Authors: Mei Qin Sun, Da Li Ma
Abstract: Silk is a symbol of Chinese traditional garment culture, it represents the characteristics and spirits of Chinese civilization; Cheongsam is an integrated epitomization of modern Chinese civilization and western culture, and is an acknowledged quintessence of traditional Chinese garment. No matter cheongsam chooses the silk or silk chooses the cheongsam, it is the excellent match of unique material and classical style that accomplishes the elegant appearance and cultural connotations. However, in reality, cheongsam culture has been deducted but failed to come to any agreements, and presents awkward cheongsam phenomenon. This paper ascribed and explained cheongsam phenomenon, discussed the real situation and culture passing-down in terms of modern garment culture.
545
Authors: Qian Li, Da Li Ma
Abstract: The article excavates and organizes silk culture resources in order to carry out a complete assessment in all perspectives of the silk culture. Current archaeological research, collections, traditional workmanship resumption and exploitation, and activities with cross-cultural influence conducted by culture and science/technology institutions are also taken into consideration. Meanwhile, others’ experience on culture heritage protection, resumption, and declaration on world cultural and natural heritage protection is used as a reference. Therefore, the assumption for further research on the silk culture conformation is made, and the necessary foundation for the declaration on protection of world cultural and natural heritage for silk culture is established.
549
Authors: Kui Pan, Jin Ping Guan, Sen Ming Wu
Abstract: Color fastness is a very important indicator to evaluate the quality of textiles. At present, color fastness is tested mainly according to China National Standard (GB/T series) and American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC series). Different standards give different quality results for the same sample. The paper mainly compared the differences of color fastness to water, perspiration and rubbing between GB/T series and AATCC series. Color fastness to water tested according to GB/T5713-1997 was different from AATCC107-2007 in sample size, liner fabric, and time for keeping constant temperature with 4h and 18h, respectively. The differences of color fastness to perspiration of GB/T3922-1995 and AATCC15-2007 were sample size, liner fabric, component and pH value of perspiration, liquor ratio and time for keeping constant temperature. Of which pH value of perspiration showed remarkable difference, GB/T3922-1995 specified two kinds of perspiration with pH value 5.5 and 8.0,while AATCC15-2007 specified pH value with 4.3. Color fastness to crocking stands of GB/T3920-2008 and AATCC8-2007 had little difference, mainly in the moisture of rubbing fabric.
554
Authors: Jun Chen, Yan Liu, Juan Hong Gu
Abstract: A fast testing procedure for the determination of VOCs in textile matrix using solid phase microextraction (SPME) and gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) was introduced. Samples were cut into small pieces and soaked in 5% methanol (v/v) saturated NaCl solution with supersonic pretreatment at 40±1°Cwater-bathing for 15 min and headspace exposure for 10 min at 50°C with stirring rate at 1100rmp. The influence of SPME adsorption time, stir speed, adsorption time and temperature, and gas chromatography (GC) inlet conditions for the SPME were investigated. Then the matrix solutions were extracted by headspace SPME and analysis by GC/MS. Under the optimized conditions, the limits of detection for target compounds were 0.005mg/kg with average recovery between 90.6-108.7%. The results obtained clearly showed the potential of SPME for efficient concentration of the target compounds and also demonstrated the reliability of this extraction technique for the monitoring of textile quality for the eco-marks.
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