Advanced Materials Research Vols. 175-176

Abstract: This paper uses grey situation decision, taking a leisure skirt for example, to access handle features of fabrics. A comprehensive framework for an optimum selection of fabrics is presented by using the method. A new approach to choose fabrics is proposed, it make the choice of the fabric objective and scientific.

Abstract: In order to improve the quality of silk garments, on the basis of the result of previous studies, and through the practice in the silk companies, the root of the problems was analyzed by SPSS. In view of the unique nature of silk fabrics, the improvement measures of quality management were raised, which is of significant practical value and social value.

Abstract: As an important component of traditional culture, Chinese national costume elements are famous as gorgeous colors and exquisite decorations. they are always the focus and inspiration in modern fashion design. With the development of the world integration, not only economy but culture, an enterprise and its design in order to survive and develop in a fierce market competition, it must own its own customers with characteristic. National costume elements include style, color matching, handcraft, accessories and patterns. National costume elements bring a clear character and unique artistic temperament. Inheritance means a continuation of that old costume culture’s visually perceptible representation. Innovation means today’s designer’s creative activities in the base of those national elements. They fuse it with modern material under new fashion ideal to create new looks which meet the modern aesthetic. In costume design works, it has two main ways to put these beautiful elements into use: elements extraction and elements extension. Only national makes international, the rational application of national costume elements is a beneficial way to promote the design works’ added value. The innovation based on the inheriting of the traditional style is where the life of design lies.

Abstract: In order to study the Princess Line in women’s suits, based on the body type of young female in Zhejiang province, this research used 3 pieces pattern and 4 pieces pattern as templates. According to different modeling Princess Lines, the researchers made patterns and sample suits. Combining with subjective experiment by mean of trying suits on, the researchers used Fuzzy Comprehensive Evaluation of Fuzzy Mathematics to analyse the data. Compared with the 3 pieces pattern, the results showed that the suits of four pieces pattern has better three-dimensional shape, and it’s more fashionable and has better appearance. Both of the diverting amount of breast dart and the horizontal distance from BP to Princess Line are important keys to cloths appearance. Further more, for 4 pieces samples, when diverting amount of the dart at breast is 1/2, it can show best pleasant curve of the female. Considering of the trend of fashion, we also concluded that for four pieces of samples and the three pieces ones when the horizontal distance from BP to Princess Line is 3.5mm and 5.5mm respectively, Princess Line of the two types of suits will show more beautiful appearance.

Abstract: Formal Dress is attired for ceremonial social communicating occasions. The appropriateness of the design of the Formal Dress is closely related to the subject’s appearance and temperament. This paper, starting with the study of the performance characteristics of the fabric for Formal Dress, analyzes the general characteristic between the expression techniques of the sculpture and the creative methods of the Formal Dress, such as pleating, inlaying, superposing, embroidering, interlacing, coiling, and hollowing out etc... It researches the language of sculpture, such as material, texture, light and shade, and space, exerts great influences on the shape of formal dress, and this influence enriches the artistic language and the cultural connotation of modern formal dress. The emphasized application the language of sculpture to the design of Formal Dress makes the Formal Dress design advance to artistry, personality and infectiousness.

Abstract: “Nv Gong”, also called embroidery, is one of traditional ethnic handicrafts of Chinese nation. It is made by stitching on the fabric in the light of the pattern designed and constituting some patterns or script. It is thereby called as “Nv Gong” because the embroidery is mostly made by women. The correct pronunciation of “Hong” in “Nv Hong” is “Gong”. The technique of “Nv Gong” (embroidery) is inherited from mother to daughter or mother-in-law to daughter-in-law, thus it is also called as “technique of mother”. The traditional “Nv Gong” (embroidery) plays a significant role in modern costume, and it injects cultural implication and vitality into the fashion. It not only stresses the blend of traditional culture and modern culture, but also emphasizes the concept of “only national technology can become popular in the world”. It both is a requirement for the appreciation of the beauty in modern costume, and shows the necessity of inheritance and promotion of traditional costume culture.

Abstract: The “Calendar Painting” in the period of the Republic of China was a medium of commercial advertising, which was initially a calendar picture for products promotion. The typical images of beautiful women dressed in cheongsams depicted in the calendar paintings became the significant feature of commercial advertising at that time. Cheongsam, as a most important representative of garment for women in the period of the Republic of China, was accompanied by the changes of times of the Republic of China with its production, transformation and development. Based on the studies of calendar advertising paintings during the time of old Shanghai, this paper elaborates such as innovation of cheongsam dress style and pattern design. In the meantime, the characteristics of cheongsam design at that time, the breakthrough on traditional aesthetics for urban women and the effects to contemporary costume design from cheongsam with Shanghai style are also researched in this paper.

Abstract: There are many different forms of arm accessories in the Tang Dynasty. Their development is due to different times, cultures, religions, and nearby ethnic minorities. Accessories and clothing are closely related, thus clothes in the Tang Dynasty also influence the changes of arm accessories. There are three continuous periods of development: early, middle, and late, each with its own distinctive characteristics. The different forms of the arm accessories will be analyzed on the basis of the social and cultural background during the Tang Dynasty. The analysis will help to gain a better understanding of modern accessories.

Abstract: Fashion styles are closely related to their social and cultural background. Clothing is a product of materials and ideas. Clothing satisfies people physically and psychologically. Androgynous style is not a recent development; it was, is and will continue to be popular, which is special in fashion history. Androgynous style is prevailing currently. Despite its appearance, androgynous style is closely connected to social and cultural influences, for example, mass media, lifestyles and improvements in production methods in the clothing industry. In this paper, there is a deep examination of androgynous style, the significance of and reasons for its popularity with societies from the past up to today.

Abstract: The eastern cultural elements, especially represented by Chinese traditional cultural elements, are widely applied in the fashion design when some major international fashion brands introduce the latest design to the world. Silk as one of main factors of Chinese culture has caught lots of attention of international fashion designers and has won great recognition in the western world. The mixtures of cultural elements give those international fashion brands big profits both in the publicity and economy. However at present in china silk is mainly employed into the bed clothing design, underwear design and craft design. Although there are some designers who try silk into the fashion design, the patterns they use are mostly the Chinese traditional ones. The limit of patterns and styles of silk design puts the domestic silk fashion design in the dilemma. The success of the employment of eastern cultural elements of those international fashion brands inspires a new trend of the silk fashion design. This thesis will try to explore approaches to combine the western cultural elements and Chinese traditional cultural elements into the silk fashion design. And at the same time, we like to talk about the concepts of using the Chinese traditional ways of sewing and embroidery in the showing western cultural elements by silk. Also we want to discuss the new access of the silk to the international fashion design world.