Advanced Materials Research Vols. 175-176

Abstract: Ontology which is a description of knowledge has been applied to many fields. Some intelligent systems based on ontology have been developed. In the paper, a clothing recommendation system based on ontology is developed. The recommendation system mainly includes two parts: knowledge base and inference engine. The structural knowledge of clothing is represented by using ontology and some constraint knowledge is described by SWRL. The clothing recommendation process are carried out using JESS, a rule engine for the Java platform, by mapping OWL-based clothing knowledge and SWRL-based design rules into JESS facts and JESS rules, respectively.

Abstract: Recently, it has been reported that suitable garment pressure contributes to accelerating human blood circulation, improving sports performance and alleviating sports fatigue. In this study, effect of pressure exerted by knee-high gradient compression socks (GCS) on the lower limb muscles was investigated. Two healthy male college students volunteered to participate in this study. They were asked to run on a treadmill at a speed of 10 km/h with a GCS worn on one leg and a usual sports sock worn on the other leg until being tired out. During running, the surface electromyography (sEMG) of two lower limb muscles —— gastrocnemius medialis of the right leg (R-GM) and the left leg (L-GM) was recorded simultaneously. It was found that: pressure exerted on the lower limb by GCS gradually decreased from ankle to below-knee; GCS pressure helped to reduce muscle oscillation; wearing GCS seemed to help to reduce muscle fatigue during running.

Abstract: Three-dimensional non-woven is a new kind of filling material which has unique tridimensional structure and excellent properties. It will be gradually applied in the field of bra cups instead of polyurethane foam. In this paper, three-dimensional non-woven and its matching materials are firstly molded into bra cups using a contour molding machine under different molding conditions. Secondly, the performance of these molded cups is analyzed in detail from the aspect of formability, handle and appearance. The performance of three-dimensional non-woven after molding is analyzed in detail from microstructure. Finally, the molding mechanism of three-dimensional non-woven bra cup has been found by researching the relationship between filling material microstructures and molded cup properties. The study provides the bra industry with a valuable basis for molding production of three-dimensional non-woven bra cups.

Abstract: Nowadays the market of fashion luxury is expended in China. Foreign luxury brands have been landing in China in succession and the fashion luxury as an important part of luxury products has also showed a prosperity market. By using of brand theory, the definitions of luxuries and fashion luxuries are given to analyze the characters of fashion luxuries under the premise of a profound understanding of meaning and role of the brand. The approaches of qualitative are used in combination in this article. The qualitative approach is applied to analyze the market of luxuries in China, the consumers’ behaviors and the consumers’ psychology. The interview methods are adopted to collect information. The elements of fashion luxuries and the indicators for physical and psychological are analyzed and proposed. On the basis of above researches, the marketing strategies for the development of domestic fashion luxury are raised up. Main points are given in this paper can be applied as a foundation of the fashion luxury market development. It makes helpful suggestions for native luxury brands’ designing and for marketing strategy’s planning. It is hopeful to provide practical ideas and methods for administrators of fashion luxury brands’ management and operation.

Abstract: The safety and comfort play more and more important roles in foundation wear design. In this paper, the change of skin blood flow under pressure is focused on. Three healthy young females were recruited to participate in the experiment. The subjects were required to wear girdles of different design, and the pressures and skin blood flow at five feature points were measured by using AMI system. Moreover, pressures of different magnitudes were exerted at the convex points of pelvis and hip by using the AMI pressure chamber, the change of skin blood flow under these pressures were observed. Some conclusions were drawn as follows: the pressure distribution under girdle was not uniform on skin surface; SBF increased under pressures, but it turned to decrease if pressure was very high; the skin pressure could be eased to varing degrees by the soft tissue, and SBF was influenced by the pressure exerted on capillaries rather than skin pressure.

Abstract: Three-dimensional non-woven liner is a new kind of material. Six different kinds of fibers with different ratios are used in the paper. Cyclic compression test of finite strain is conducted by Instron 3365. And then regression analysis on compression curves is performed with the SPSS software. Indicators of softness and compression recovery can be determined through correlation and variance analysis. The values of these samples’ indicators are calculated. The raw material’s composition and its influence on compression property are analyzed in order to provide basis for the development of three-dimensional non-woven liner material.

Abstract: Silk was the most ancient export commodity, and it’s the evidence and pride of Chinese civilization. Silk is of noble temperament and deep culture; it is loved by old and young man at home and abroad. The high price of silk depends on its technic, therefore, in the development of silk garment, it is essential to consider high grade sense of silk garment. Silk has a certain high grade sense on texture and sheen, but it still needs to be combined with apparel color and pattern, which can make silk garment possess high grade sense. The paper aims at apparel color and pattern, extracts the key factors of high grade sense through the investigation of the comprehension and cognition of people. The paper is on the basis of the theory of Kansei Engineering. It extracts emotional evaluation factors of garment high grade sense by the way of interview and questionnaire survey, and then the author analyses the survey data by the statistic software of SPSS17.0. Finally the author concludes the different kinds of high grade sense which are understood by people. As a result, they can lead the development of silk garment.

Abstract: This paper took the garment processing enterprise production system layout for research object, based on the characteristics of garment processing enterprises, analyzed systematically the contents of garment processing enterprise production system layout, and provided theoretical support for the layout of garment processing enterprises. It respectively analyzed operating unit features, logistics relationships and the relationship between operational units of garment production system, obtained a comprehensive relationship between operating units, and provided a theoretical basis for the project design of the garment enterprise. Based on rationally analyzing and researching the literature of inspection and collection, the author went to a number of garment enterprises in Zhejiang, Shanghai, Shandong and Shaanxi provinces and cities to conduct field research, and designed the basic program of garment factories. We used factor comparing method of comprehensive evaluation factors to determine the weight of each evaluation factor, marked the layout design program by experts’ evaluation, and determined the strengths and weaknesses of the program according to the score high or low.

Abstract: Silk is Chinese cultural legacy, and whether in ancient times or now, a very important role was played on the clothing stage. Through the history, silk reeling technology, fabric texture, printing and dyeing patterns and clothing styles of silk clothing may have been improved, but many implications have not been changed. Implication is a person's heart for an object out of the product taste. Times changes, implication remains. In the modern era consumer psychology were focused on, consumers’ implications for silk clothing were dived, so resonance is greatly caused by consumers. First the traditional and modern implications of silk were analyzed, and the key words were got. These terms have been used to describe the different means of silk clothing. Second 5 sample silk garment was researched by the way of interpreting drawings. Semantic differential method was used to score. Last two kinds of properties of silk garments’ implications were obtained through factor analysis. The original implications can be included by these two properties, and the representation has been clearly shown. In the future silk clothing design methods and research directions, these two properties can be used as the basis, the consumer market segments positioning and style design has been carried out. Reference was supplied for silk clothing design methods and research.

Abstract: Due to the delicacy of the material, stitch slipping occurs easier in silk garments than in the garments of other materials. Stitch slipping often occurs in the positions which are often subjected to stress, such as shoulder seam, side seam, and sleeve seam of the silk garment. The reasons of the stitch slipping in silk garments both from silk material itself and the manufacturing process of silk garments were analyzed. Sewing needle, stitch density and seam allowance were main manufacturing factors that affecting the stitch slipping in silk garments. By making experiments with silk garments of satin fabric, the influencing level of these three manufacturing factors were analyzed, at the same time the valuable reference data was also put forward.