Advanced Materials Research Vols. 175-176

Abstract: Shoulder adornment, as a colorful flower among traditional Chinese costume, is known for its totem-rich patterns, exquisite embroidery skill and unique decorative application. In this paper, the modeling and structure of the shoulder adornment arts were discussed and explained. The direct, indirect and re-creation application method of artistic representations were applied into the design of cheongsam, sweater and evening dress to create innovative effect. These clothes not only kept the charm of Chinese shoulder adornment, but also represented the characteristics of modern fashion design. Modern women clothes with the characteristics of luxury, graceful and Chinese traditional could be designed on the basis of the combination of unique shoulder adornment styles with modern fashion style, which embodied great artistic value and unique creativity of shoulder adornment in traditional Chinese costume culture and represented the culture implication of the unity of heaven and man.

Abstract: With the development of science and technology, silk fabric becomes more and more colorful. On the one hand, hand-painted silk fabrics have unparalleled appearance reflecting the designer’s concept, on the other hand high fashion is one of high value-added products. High fashion design needs more unique fabric and the hand-painted silk fabric is just the right choice. In the West, designers attach more importance to developing silk fabric in high fashion design extensively and innovatively; while in China the high fashion design is still holding a backward position. Through studying the relationship of hand-painted silk fabric and high fashion in China, we can forecast the trend of hand-painted silk in high fashion design effectively, and at the same time promote the development of high fashion design.

Abstract: In this paper, “fashionable” and “conservative” as color emotional words were used, and color piece and clothing color samples with 40 hues and 9 saturation levels were evaluated on emotional variables in behavioral trials. The purpose of the present study was to investigate how the saturation influence on the cognition of clothing color. Results showed that different saturation could be easily perceived as different emotion, and the fashionable emotion presented a weak-strong trend as the saturation increased, whereas the conservative emotion presented a reverse trend. The emotions of color pieces and clothing colors tended to be consistent. However, compared with color pieces, the clothing colors had stronger fashionable emotion. The colors of high and low saturation presented sensitivity to subjects, and the RTs (response time) were shorter in emotional evaluation. In addition, it was easier to cognize fashionable emotion than to cognize conservative emotion.

Abstract: The knowledge database of ready-to-wear included the clothing knowledge required in the process from design to manufacture. It is to carry on management and storage of the original trivial clothing knowledge, achieve rapid information access, delivery and response. People hope garment fit their body better, but now garment is produced in bulk. The challenges the company faces is to achieve intelligent pattern making and pattern individuation based on the knowledge database of ready-to-wear.to improve the production efficiency. In this paper, the relation among the different data in the knowledge database of ready-to-wear are studied. The key is how to achieve transforming the human body data, style and craft data to the pattern plate data, and ascertain the constraint relation between body measurement data and pattern plate data. Man’s shirt is taken as an example in this paper. The conversion function and the fitting curve of the back armhole are obtained through analysis of the pattern plate data in order to provide the foundation for achieving the transformation from data information to pattern sketch.

Abstract: The clothing shape will be changed when a wearer moves or changes his pose. The clothing pressure which acts on the body will be varied according to these changes of clothing shape. In this paper, the changes of clothing shape, the tension of fabric, the clothing pressure on body will be measured. The Digital image processing will be used to measure the changes of fabric shape. The relationship between the changes of clothing shape and the fabric tension, between the fabric tension and the clothing pressure on body will be discussed.

Abstract: As time goes by and shape of body shape change, clothing sizes of national standard GB1335-1997 don't quite match Fig., and low coverage rate of size series becomes obvious situation, especially in recommended size configuration area. So there is an urgent need to study on configuration of human body and garment match, and then rationality of current size configuration was perfected. In view of national size configuration, shirt armhole was used as a sample; two sets of data were built and studied in recommended and non-recommended configuration area. The correlation and stability of chest girth change and D-value which obtained from armhole length and arm root girth were analyzed in detail. The possibility and feasibility of match between size configuration and body shape were shown. New way of analysis was explored by experiments, which could be used for reference in further research of size series.

Abstract: Fabric extension can be measured by using fabric strength tester in laboratory. But the extension is difficult to be measured when the clothing is in wearing. In this paper, the relationship between the extension of clothing and the fabric tension was discussed according to the experiment result. The digital image processing will be used to grab clothing images and to measure the extension of fabric. The techniques of digital image processing, such as binary conversion of image, noise points deleting, smooth processing of stripe edge and the stripe width measuring, were applied in this research. Based on experiment results, the relation between the fabric tension and extension were linear when the clothing was under the condition of small strength.

Abstract: In this paper, the contents of knowledge base for clothing sensory design are defined as four parts: the clothing design elements, semantic expression, reflection between the former two and design rules. The character and contents of each part are discussed and analyzed respectively. Methods of interviewing, laddering, card sorting, analytic hierarchy process (AHP), Hierarchy structure, triangle fuzzy numbers, literature reviewing etc. are chosen for the knowledge elicitation and representation. The men’s suit is used as a case study to explain the whole procedure of knowledge base construction. The style design elements of the men’s suit are decomposed into 9 items and 28 categories. The semantic space of the sensory evaluation towards the men’s suit is modelled in the form of 4 word-pairs: formal- casual, classical- modern, gorgeous- simple and elegant- masculine. The triangular fuzzy numbers are introduced to quantify the 7-point scales of linguistic descriptions (extreme, very, rather, average, rather, very and extreme). And the reflection of the design elements space and semantic space is acquired and represented. The design rule of the men’s suit is obtained by the method of literature reviewing and interviewing. It includes both the basic rule derived from the beauty rule and the design principle based on consumers’ character such as body type and facial colour etc. All techniques and methods are not limited to men’s suit itself but can be extended to other garments or products. The conclusions of the paper will play an important role in realizing the goals such as clothing individuation, sensation, intellectualization and fashion etc.

Abstract: Under the background of modern industrialization, the traditional process bursts out new vitality with unique hand-painted art taste and traditional culture connotation. On the basis of absorbing the essence of traditional handicrafts, in this paper the traditional silk hand-painted fabrics is focused. Its artistic character, fashion and practicability are discussed respectively. The second design methods based on modern science and art concept retain the original aesthetic characteristic, and furthermore do innovation in process, pattern and fabric design. The research results would be helpful to practical production design and satisfy the relative market.

Abstract: In this paper, Kansei Engineering is introduced into garment design to establish a research platform. The core of Kansei Engineering is to translate abstract semantic demands of garment into detailed design elements. It is suggestive and helpful for designers and customers to understand the quantified relationship between them two. In this study，27 representative stripe-pattern knitted garments and 7 word-pairs were selected as samples and appraisal words. The questionnaires were distributed to 132 college students of Soochow University and then the data results were analyzed by using statistical software SPSS 13.0. From analysis, some conclusions were drawn as follows: Personality and appearance factor were the two main Kansei factors; and the relationships between the design factors of stripe-pattern knitted garment and the customers’ sensory psychology were presented directly through quadrant analysis.